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Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Rose de Chanel c1926

"Rose de Chanel," introduced in 1926, stands as a timeless emblem of elegance and sophistication within the world of perfumery. Crafted by the renowned Ernest Beaux, this fragrance encapsulates the timeless allure of the rose, celebrated for its delicate beauty and intoxicating aroma. With its launch, Chanel introduced a scent that transcended fleeting trends, embodying the epitome of classic femininity and refined glamour. Today, "Rose de Chanel" remains a cherished treasure, revered for its timeless appeal and enduring legacy.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women. Based on other rose formulas of the period, I have created a scent profile which I think may have been similar to what Rose de Chanel smelled like.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, rose geranium, bergamot, neroli, clove
  • Middle notes: rose absolute, jasmine absolute, orris, orange blossom, violet
  • Base notes: spices, ambergris, sandalwood, musk, patchouli, civet, tonka bean, vetiver
Possible aromachemicals may have been used such as coumarin, rhodinol, and vanillin.

"Rose de Chanel," classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, unfolds like a captivating symphony of scent.

Top notes:
 
 At the top, synthetic compounds known as aldehydes, create a sparkling and effervescent quality, adding a sense of freshness and sophistication to the opening of the perfume. Rose geranium contributes a rosy, green, and slightly minty aroma, enhancing the floral bouquet and adding a natural sweetness to the fragrance. 

Bergamot provides a citrusy and bright opening, adding a refreshing and uplifting touch to the composition. Neroli, derived from bitter orange blossoms, offers a delicate and honeyed floral scent, complementing the rose and adding a hint of sweetness. Clove adds a warm and spicy nuance to the top notes, creating depth and complexity while enhancing the overall richness of the fragrance.

Middle notes:

Rose absolute serves as the heart of the fragrance, exuding a rich, romantic, and intoxicating floral aroma that captures the essence of the rose flower. Jasmine absolute contributes a heady and sensual floral note, enhancing the complexity of the bouquet and adding depth and warmth to the composition. 

Orris root provides a powdery and earthy aroma, complementing the floral notes and adding a touch of sophistication to the heart of the fragrance. Orange blossom offers a sweet and delicate floral scent, infusing the composition with a fresh and uplifting quality. Violet contributes a soft and powdery sweetness, enhancing the overall richness of the floral bouquet and adding a romantic touch to the fragrance.

Base notes:

Other spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and other warm, aromatic spices add depth and complexity to the base notes, creating a warm and inviting finish to the fragrance. Ambergris provides a soft and musky undertone, adding warmth and sensuality to the base of the fragrance. Sandalwood offers a creamy and luxurious texture, imparting a sense of depth and sophistication to the composition. Musk provides a soft and velvety base, adding a sensual and comforting touch to the fragrance. 

Patchouli adds a dark and earthy aroma, grounding the composition and adding depth and richness to the base notes.  Civet lends an animalic and musky quality to the fragrance, enhancing its complexity and adding a touch of sensuality. Tonka bean provides a sweet and creamy aroma, adding depth and richness to the base notes while imparting a cozy and comforting warmth. Vetiver offers a woody and earthy aroma, adding depth and complexity to the fragrance while grounding the composition and adding a touch of rugged sophistication.

Coumarin, Rhodinol, Vanillin: These aromachemicals may have been used to enhance and enrich the overall scent profile, adding subtle nuances and enhancing the longevity of the fragrance.

By harmoniously blending these exquisite ingredients, perfumers in the 1920s created rose-based perfumes that captivated the senses, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and sophistication.



Bottle:


To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:

Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued at an undisclosed date, "Rose de Chanel" continued to grace the shelves of fragrance counters, defying time's passage as it remained available for purchase until at least 1937.  

"Rose de Chanel" stands as a rare and elusive gem in the world of perfumery today. Despite its availability until at least 1937, the passage of time has rendered it a coveted treasure, sought after by collectors and fragrance enthusiasts alike. Its scarcity only adds to its allure, evoking a sense of mystery and nostalgia for a bygone era of elegance and sophistication. For those fortunate enough to encounter a bottle of "Rose de Chanel," it represents not only a fragrance but a piece of history, a testament to the timeless beauty and enduring legacy of Chanel's olfactory creations.


American Druggist - Volume 95, 1937:
  • "CHANEL - After Bath Powder $6.50 
  • Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 3 1/2 oz $6.00, 8 oz $10.00, 15 oz $19.50, 28 oz $37.50. 
  • (Cylinder Bottle) Jasmin and Bois des Isles. 3 1/2 oz $5.00, 7 1/2 oz  $10.00.
  • Perfumes: Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and Special. 
  • Chanel Eau de Cologne perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather. 3 sizes. 
  • Talcum Powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather. Generous size, $1.50, Large size, $2.50."


This glimpse into history, captured in the pages of American Druggist - Volume 95 of 1937, reveals a diverse array of Chanel fragrances, each encapsulating the essence of timeless elegance and sophistication. From the delicate allure of gardenia and jasmine to the rich complexity of amber and chypre, Chanel's offerings promised an olfactory experience that transcended mere scent, evoking a sense of luxury and refinement. With options ranging from after-bath powder to eau de toilette and perfume, as well as talcum powder and eau de cologne, Chanel catered to a discerning clientele seeking the epitome of sophistication in every aspect of their grooming routine.

 

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