Chanel No. 5 is a fragrance that transcends time, an iconic creation that began as a Christmas gift in 1921 and eventually blossomed into one of the most celebrated perfumes in history. Created by the talented perfumer Ernest Beaux, Chanel No. 5 was originally presented as a limited edition of only 100 bottles, a precious and exclusive gift reserved for Coco Chanel’s most esteemed clients. Each flacon, a luxurious masterpiece in its own right, was not just a perfume but a symbol of status, refinement, and a bold new vision of femininity.
The perfume’s debut was as extraordinary as its creation. Coco Chanel herself had a specific vision for the fragrance: she wanted it to capture the essence of modern, independent women. To accomplish this, she partnered with Beaux, whose innovative use of the newly discovered aldehydes set Chanel No. 5 apart from anything the world had known before. Aldehydes, a synthetic component, brought a sparkling clarity and complexity to the fragrance that made it feel otherworldly—intensifying the floral notes and giving the perfume an ethereal, almost futuristic quality. It was this groundbreaking use of aldehydes, which had just been discovered in perfumery, that would later become one of Chanel No. 5’s defining characteristics.
After its initial introduction, the perfume was released for public sale in the middle of 1922, a moment that would change the trajectory of fragrance history. The scent was an opulent blend of florals, balanced with the crisp, fresh notes of aldehydes, creating a fragrance that was both sophisticated and revolutionary. The top notes opened with a luminous burst of aldehydes, instantly elevating the composition with a bright, almost soapy freshness that sparkled with clarity. This light, airy quality made the floral notes that followed—jasmine, ylang-ylang, and rose—feel even more expansive and luxurious, as though each petal was given room to breathe in the composition.
As the fragrance unfolded, the heart deepened, revealing the warm, creamy texture of orris root, which added a velvety richness to the fragrance. This was complemented by a warm, musky base that was supported by notes of sandalwood and amber, grounding the light florals and aldehydes with a softness that clung to the skin. The overall effect was one of elegant complexity—a fragrance that was at once fresh, floral, and incredibly sensual.
Chanel No. 5’s influence on the world of perfume was immediate and profound. It broke with the past by blending synthetic elements with natural floral notes, creating a scent that was as sophisticated as it was modern. The aldehydes in Chanel No. 5 set a new standard for what a fragrance could be, influencing generations of perfumers who would continue to explore the possibilities of this sparkling, luminous ingredient. The perfume was a symbol of the Roaring Twenties—a time of liberation, innovation, and the rising independence of women—and remains, to this day, a timeless tribute to both elegance and modernity.
The Beginning:
The creation of Chanel No. 5 is surrounded by numerous fascinating legends, many of which were shared and propagated by Coco Chanel herself and Ernest Beaux, the perfumer behind its creation. One popular story involves a supposed mistake in the formula, where Beaux's assistant allegedly overdosed on the aldehyde accord, using pure aldehydes instead of a diluted solution. This would have resulted in an overwhelming concentration of aldehydes, which is said to be responsible for the distinctive freshness of the fragrance. However, this explanation seems unlikely, considering the perfect balance between the floral notes—especially the rose-jasmine accord—and the aldehydes, which together create a harmonious composition. The precision of the formula suggests that the aldehydes were intentionally used in this concentrated manner to give the fragrance its signature airy, almost soapy clarity. The floral notes are enhanced, not overwhelmed, by the aldehydes, suggesting that the overdose may have been a myth.
Another legend attributes the inspiration behind Chanel No. 5 to Ernest Beaux's military experience during the Russian Civil War (1917–1919) when he was stationed in the remote Kola Peninsula. According to Constantin Weriguine, Beaux sought to capture the scent of the northern lakes under the midnight sun, a place of extreme freshness and purity. While this story is captivating, it is unlikely to be entirely accurate, as Beaux had already incorporated aldehydes into his creations well before his military service. In fact, he had used aldehydes in his 1913 creation, Bouquet de Catherine, which was inspired by Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs (1912), the first perfume to incorporate synthetic aldehydes. This connection between Beaux and aldehydes pre-dates the Kola Peninsula story and suggests that Beaux’s expertise with aldehydes developed well before the Civil War.
A closer look at the development of Chanel No. 5 reveals that it was likely inspired by earlier works. Beaux’s earlier compositions, such as Bouquet de Napoleon (1912), which was a floral eau de Cologne, and the Bouquet de Catherine (1913), an homage to Catherine the Great, both utilized synthetic aldehydes to purge the “fattiness” of natural floral oils like rose and jasmine. Beaux’s experimentation with aldehydes began with a complex blend of C-10, C-11, and C-12 aldehydes, which created a crisp, almost sparkling effect that lightened the rich, dense florals of rose and jasmine. Through trial and error, Beaux perfected this technique, increasing the aldehyde levels to such an extent that it completely transformed the traditional floral scent into something entirely new.
The success of Bouquet de Catherine in Moscow was relatively modest, and it was renamed Rallet No. 1 when World War I broke out due to political and social pressures. Despite being adapted and rebranded during the war, it was still not a commercial success. However, Beaux’s experience with Rallet No. 1 became a critical stepping stone in the creation of Chanel No. 5. After the war, when Beaux joined the fragrance house Chiris, he continued working on the formula for Rallet No. 1, adjusting it to fit the post-war economic conditions and available raw materials. Coco Chanel, looking for a new fragrance to represent the modern, independent woman, eventually chose one of Beaux's adapted formulas—the fifth vial of a series of trials—and dubbed it Chanel No. 5.
Chanel’s personal relationship with Beaux also played a pivotal role in the development of this iconic fragrance. Initially disinterested in perfumes, Chanel had once remarked that women only wore perfume to mask unpleasant odors. However, her perspective shifted when she became romantically involved with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia. He introduced her to Beaux, and possibly to Bouquet de Catherine, which his sister used. In 1920, Chanel and Dmitri met Beaux in Cannes and requested that he create new scents for her upcoming collection of summer dresses. The result was a series of 25 vials, each numbered, and Chanel chose bottle No. 5, a decision that would ultimately change the course of perfume history.
Chanel No. 5’s composition was a departure from the heavy, all-floral scents that dominated the perfume market at the time. Coco Chanel envisioned a fragrance that reflected the modern, independent woman, and she was captivated by the fresh, almost “dry martini” touch of aldehydes. These synthetic compounds brought an innovative brightness and airiness to the perfume, transforming the traditional floral ingredients into something far more luminous and sophisticated. The fragrance was clean, with an abstract quality that could not easily be pinpointed, which was precisely what Chanel wanted—a perfume that felt timeless, elegant, and modern.
In the years that followed, Chanel No. 5 would go on to become one of the most iconic and best-selling perfumes of all time. The use of aldehydes in combination with rose, jasmine, and other floral notes created a scent that was as innovative as it was beautiful. Coco Chanel’s decision to create a fragrance that was both modern and chic, free from the traditional boundaries of perfumery, paid off in spades. Chanel No. 5 became synonymous with sophistication and elegance, its timeless appeal only growing with the years.
The Name:
Coco Chanel's iconic perfume, Chanel Nº 5, was initially intended as a Christmas gift for her best clients, with only 100 flacons planned for production. When Ernest Beaux presented Chanel with two series of adaptations of Rallet Nº 1, labeled 1–5 and 20–24, it was the vial marked Nº 5 that caught her attention. Beaux asked how she would name the perfume, and Chanel, known for her love of numerology and superstitions, replied, "I always launch my collection on the 5th day of the 5th month, so the number 5 seems to bring me luck – therefore, I will name it Nº 5." This choice was not merely a coincidence; Chanel’s connection to the number 5 was well-known, as it was associated with significant dates in her life, such as her fashion show launches, and even her personal experiences, including her fondness for the number at roulette tables.
The creation of Chanel Nº 5, however, was rooted in more personal and emotional circumstances. In the 1920s, after the tragic death of her lover Boy Capel, Chanel sought solace and recuperation in the south of France. It was during this period that a flower essence maker in Grasse allowed her to experiment with her own perfume mixture. According to Bettina Ballard's account in her 1960 book In My Fashion, Chanel crafted the perfume while recovering from Capel’s death, and upon testing her fifth attempt, she wrote the number 5 on the bottle and declared, “Now I will sell this.” Chanel chose to name the fragrance Nº 5, a decision she made not only out of personal connection but also as part of her desire to create something modern and distinctive in the perfume world.
In 1959, H. Gregory Thomas, a close friend of Chanel and chairman of Chanel’s board, explained the rationale behind the naming. He noted that Chanel was initially puzzled about what to call her perfume but found comfort in the idea of the number 5. It was her "lucky number" in various contexts, including roulette, and it was tied to significant dates in her career, such as the opening of her fashion shows. Moreover, Chanel saw the number 5 as a modern and unique naming choice, one that was easy to pronounce across languages and memorable for both men and women. The number 5 also conveyed a sense of elegance and exclusivity, aligning perfectly with the high-fashion image she sought to project. Thus, Chanel Nº 5 was born, its name and its creation steeped in personal significance and an unwavering desire to stand apart from the conventional.
The Final Composition:
When Coco Chanel set out to create her perfume, she had a specific vision in mind. She wanted to craft a fragrance that would embody the scent of a woman rather than the typical floral bouquets often found in perfumes. Chanel herself explained, "I want to give women an artificial perfume," emphasizing that she aimed for something meticulously crafted, much like a designer dress. "Yes, I really do mean artificial," she clarified, "I don’t want any rose or lily of the valley, I want a perfume that is a composition." This desire for a synthetic, modern scent that broke from traditional floral-based perfumes led to the creation of Chanel Nº 5, which would eventually become known for its innovative use of aldehydes and synthetic materials.
Though synthetic ingredients were not entirely new to the perfume world, Chanel Nº 5's groundbreaking use of aldehydes was pivotal in defining the fragrance. Aldehyde C-12 MNA (2-methylundecanal) had previously appeared in Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs in 1912, and the synthetic compound coumarin had been introduced by Paul Parquet in 1882 in Fougère Royale by Houbigant. However, Chanel Nº 5 became famous for its overdose of synthetic aldehydes, which contributed to its distinctive top note. Chanel's perfumer, Jacques Polge, noted that Beaux, who was responsible for creating the fragrance, used the best materials available but felt that the final composition lacked "lift" due to an excess at the base of the bottle.
Ernest Beaux had initially worked with real Bulgarian and French rose essences, as well as Grasse jasmine absolute, in his early formulations. However, these expensive ingredients were soon replaced with more affordable commercial bases, such as Jasmophore for jasmine and Rose E.B., a special rose base created by Beaux himself. This shift allowed the fragrance to be produced at a more reasonable cost while still maintaining the characteristic floral notes. Beaux enhanced the floral heart of the perfume with the addition of hawthorn, lily of the valley, Madagascar ylang-ylang, and jonquil from Holland. The composition was further refined with the use of methyl ionone (Iralia), a powdery, violet-like compound that extended the orris theme.
The fragrance's heart was balanced with spicy notes of cassie and isoeugenol, adding a lively, dynamic quality to the composition. What truly set Chanel Nº 5 apart, however, was its unconventional base notes. Unlike many other feminine fragrances of the time, which were dominated by sweet florals and vanilla, Chanel Nº 5 featured a distinctive vetiver note, derived from Javanese vetiver. This masculine note, present at the beginning of the base, was complemented by sandalwood and patchouli oil, giving the perfume a woody, earthy depth that contrasted with its delicate floral heart.
The base of Chanel Nº 5 also included a complex musk accord, which contributed to the fragrance’s sensual, lasting impression. Originally, the musk was derived from natural sources like genuine musk, ambergris, and civet, blended with synthetic nitro musks such as Musk Ketone and Musk Ambrette. These musks were softened by the addition of oak moss and cinnamon bark. Over time, the formula had to be adapted due to changing regulations, including the banning of genuine musk to protect endangered species, as well as limitations on nitro musks due to their photo-toxicity. Despite these adjustments, Chanel Nº 5 continued to evolve, maintaining its status as a timeless and iconic fragrance.
The original composition of Chanel Nº 5 included exactly 31 perfume ingredients, though it is often cited in the media as containing over 80 or even 250 ingredients, due to the use of complex bases and blends. This intricate formula was one of the key factors that made Chanel Nº 5 so revolutionary in the world of perfumery, as it combined natural ingredients with synthetic materials to create a scent unlike any other.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? The original formula for Chanel No. 5 is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on sensual feminine base. "Sparkling, modern blend of floral notes, neither too dry nor too sweet. The perfect harmony of tonka bean, lily of the valley, ylang ylang from Madagascar, and above all, dew drenched rose and jasmine from France, and tiny white and yellow jonquils from Holland that bind and metamorphosis into aldehyde which was a great discovery of perfumery."
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Grasse neroli, Egyptian narcissus, Brazilian rosewood, linalool, linalyl acetate
- Middle notes: Peruvian heliotrope, Grasse jasmine absolute, Tuscan violet, methyl ionone, Florentine orris, Moroccan cassie, Zanzibar clove, isoeugenol, Grasse rose de mai absolute, phenylacetaldehyde, Chinese hawthorn, Alpine lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, cinnamic alcohol, Madagascar ylang ylang oil and Dutch jonquil
- Base notes: Maltese cistus labdanum oil, Lebanese cedar, Mysore sandalwood, natural ambergris tincture, natural Tonkin musk tincture, nitromusks, Indonesian patchouli, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Sumatran styrax, Bourbon vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Ceylon cinnamon bark, natural Abyssinian civet tincture
Marie-Claire, 1937:
"Chanel No. 5: subtle and heady. Dominant note: Dominant note: slightly flowery, amber and musk. For blondes and chestnuts."
Combat, 1953:
"Tonka bean, lily of the valley, and, above all, rose and jasmine come together to transform and refine an aldehyde—a groundbreaking discovery in perfumery. This fragrance evokes the intimate elegance of Paris: a fashion designer's salon, a bar where you dress for cocktails, a restaurant with a view of Notre-Dame, a theater staging a Marivaux play, a boudoir where the inquisitive curiosity of Marcel Proust lingers, and an art dealer's shop on the day of a chic opening."
Scent Profile:
Chanel No. 5 opens with an unmistakable rush of aldehydes, sparkling and effervescent, like the crisp air of a new day. These synthetic aroma chemicals, particularly aldehyde C-12 MNA, are responsible for the perfume’s signature soapy, almost metallic top note. They cut through the air with a sharp, invigorating burst, adding brightness and lift that transform the fragrance from ordinary to extraordinary.
Alongside the aldehydes, the lively zest of Calabrian bergamot—sourced from the southern coast of Italy—offers a tangy citrus quality that is both fresh and energizing, while the Sicilian lemon, known for its intense acidity and vibrant sweetness, adds a touch of sparkling luminosity to the opening. As the aldehydic wave subsides, the rich, honeyed depth of Grasse neroli unfurls, its orange blossom notes bringing a touch of sophistication. Neroli, harvested in the renowned perfume capital of Grasse, France, offers a unique, soft bitterness that sets it apart from the more floral, sweeter varieties of orange blossom found elsewhere.
Egyptian narcissus adds a touch of opulence—earthy, floral, and slightly sweet, it serves as a soft but vibrant bridge into the lush bouquet of flowers that dominate the middle. Brazilian rosewood brings a rich, warm woody note, reminiscent of a finely polished piece of furniture, with a hint of spicy sweetness. The scent of linalool, a gentle, lavender-like floral compound, rounds out the blend, lending a soft, airy freshness that perfectly balances the bolder notes. Linalyl acetate, another ester with a sweet, slightly fruity and floral profile, enhances this harmony, giving the fragrance its smooth, delicate finish and boosting the natural floral qualities of the blend.
The heart of Chanel No. 5 reveals its complexity as the fragrance blooms into a soft, elegant floral bouquet. The heady richness of Grasse jasmine absolute, a true masterpiece of perfumery, takes center stage. This absolute, sourced from the region of Grasse in France, is prized for its intoxicating, opulent scent—richly floral with indolic facets that bring a certain animalic sensuality, perfect for a fragrance intended to embody the essence of femininity.
Peruvian heliotrope adds a powdery, sweet nuance to the heart, its almond-like scent weaving through the floral composition. Tuscan violet, with its delicate, powdery green floral scent, softens the heady florals while introducing an earthy, somewhat herbaceous element. The inclusion of methyl ionone, a synthetic chemical that mimics the sweet, woody aroma of orris, enhances the violet's powdery character, amplifying the floral depth while balancing the sweeter elements. Florentine orris, extracted from the rhizome of iris flowers grown in the Tuscan region of Italy, adds an elegant, soft powdery note to the mix, contributing its dry, elegant richness that persists throughout the fragrance.
The floral heart is further enriched by the subtle spice of Moroccan cassie and the sweet, warm notes of Zanzibar clove and isoeugenol, the latter a synthetic compound that mimics clove's warm, spicy profile. These elements add a bit of intrigue to the fragrance, creating an elegant tension between the softer, powdery florals and the deeper, more complex facets. Grasse rose de mai absolute, another jewel of perfumery, lends its soft, dewy rose scent, enhancing the floral heart with its delicate sweetness and depth. Meanwhile, the faint sweetness of phenylacetaldehyde—responsible for the honeyed, slightly fruity note—joins with the crisp, green freshness of Chinese hawthorn and the alpine, cool scent of lily of the valley, both enhancing the perfume’s floral elegance. Hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic compound with a fresh, clean, slightly citrusy floral scent, adds a modern, airy lift to the heart, ensuring that the fragrance never becomes too heavy or overwhelming.
As the perfume settles into its base, a sensual depth unfolds. The warm, resinous scent of Maltese cistus labdanum oil provides a rich, leathery undertone that mingles beautifully with the earthy, grounding qualities of Lebanese cedar. These woods—mature and aromatic—anchor the perfume, offering a balance to the florals above. Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy, smooth, and slightly woody sweetness, adds a luxurious and comforting texture to the base, while the natural ambergris tincture introduces a soft, marine animalic richness that imparts a sense of sensuality. The natural Tonkin musk tincture, once a key element in Chanel's original formula, evokes a smooth, earthy depth, though it has since been replaced by synthetics due to ethical concerns. The nitromusks, such as Musk Ketone and Musk Ambrette, lend a more modern, synthetic muskiness, providing a clean, lingering finish that is both warm and slightly powdery.
The fragrance’s base is further enriched with Indonesian patchouli, known for its deep, earthy, and woody character. Patchouli brings an unmistakable richness that contrasts with the lighter florals, adding depth and structure to the composition. The sweet warmth of Mexican vanilla and the woody, balsamic quality of Venezuelan tonka bean create a sweet and comforting overlay, while the powdery, spicy sweetness of coumarin—a synthetic compound that mimics the scent of freshly cut hay—adds a layer of softness. The Sumatran styrax, with its resinous, slightly smoky and balsamic notes, provides a smoky contrast to the sweeter vanillin and tonka bean, contributing complexity to the fragrance's finish.
Finally, the fragrance closes with the slightly animalic depth of Yugoslavian oakmoss, which adds a mossy, green earthiness that enhances the overall longevity of the fragrance. The warm, spicy scent of Ceylon cinnamon bark adds an unexpected twist to the base, complementing the woodiness of the patchouli and the balsamic sweetness of the tonka bean. Natural Abyssinian civet tincture, though no longer used today, once added an indolic, animalic richness to the base, contributing to the fragrance's seductive power.
Chanel No. 5's original formula, crafted from a delicate balance of natural essences and synthetic compounds, created a perfume that was bold, modern, and utterly timeless. The interplay between the fresh citrus, floral heart, and sensual base of woods and musks gave the fragrance its enduring appeal, and it is this masterful balance of natural and synthetic ingredients that continues to make Chanel No. 5 an icon in the world of perfumery.
The Launch:
Chanel No. 5's journey began quietly but dramatically, with only a small number of bottles produced in 1921 as an exclusive gift for Coco Chanel's most loyal customers during the holiday season. These limited-edition flacons, numbering just 100, were given with grace and reverence, marking the fragrance's introduction to the world. However, the success of this gesture was immediate: the recipients, captivated by the new scent, began to request more. This overwhelming response encouraged Chanel to launch the fragrance officially in 1922, but the debut was not without challenges. Chanel faced significant supply issues that hindered the grand spectacle she might have hoped for, and the fragrance was introduced in a modest manner. While author Michael Edwards confirms that the fragrance's public debut was in 1922, Christie Mayer Lefkowith adds that Chanel had already secured the trademark for Chanel No. 5 on January 1, 1921, solidifying the scent’s early presence in her mind well before it reached the masses.
Despite its muted beginning, Chanel No. 5 would go on to become one of the most famous perfumes in history. The scent was introduced to the American market in 1926, years after its initial release in France, solidifying its position in the global consciousness. A 1928 newspaper advertisement encapsulates its status: "Just Unpacked – Chanel’s New Perfumes!" The ad emphasized the designer’s unique perspective on fragrance, suggesting that perfume should be as carefully considered as the clothes one wears. It presented No. 5 as a luxurious, sophisticated scent that paired perfectly with high fashion. At $22.50, it was a premium product, reflecting Chanel's perception of perfume as an essential complement to a refined lifestyle. According to an inflation calculator, this would equal to about $414.99 in 2025. The ad’s description of No. 5 as a blend of "myrrh, hawthorn heaped with flower, roses of Oriental gardens" evokes a sense of exotic beauty, with an air of casual elegance fitting for the most sophisticated gowns.
In 1959, H. Gregory Thomas described Chanel No. 5 as the "peak of creativeness" in perfumery. He noted that, though there had been no groundbreaking scientific advancements in perfume composition in the previous decades, No. 5 had retained its distinctive allure. Thomas compared the creation of perfumes to composing music, calling perfume the "music of flowers." He reflected on the timeless nature of Chanel No. 5, explaining how it became the fragrance of its era, surpassing others in both popularity and complexity. He also acknowledged Chanel No. 22, which was created alongside No. 5. While No. 22 was described as a "white perfume" with a soft, refined character, evocative of garden parties and debutante balls, No. 5's brighter, more modern qualities made it resonate more with contemporary life. It was, in his words, more fitting for the evolving tastes of the modern woman.
Jacques Polge, who would later become Chanel's in-house perfumer, spoke about the lasting legacy of Chanel No. 5. He described the fragrance as "influential," noting that many imitations had been created in its wake, but none had the staying power of No. 5. Today, Polge believes that the perfume’s uniqueness is even more evident, setting it apart from all others. He attributes this uniqueness to the fragrance’s mystery, a quality he describes as essential for longevity in perfume. According to Polge, a fragrance that lacks mystery can never endure; No. 5, with its complex blend of notes, continues to captivate precisely because it does not reveal itself too easily. Its ability to evoke intrigue, while remaining deeply familiar, has ensured its place as an iconic and timeless creation.
The Flacon:
The iconic Chanel No. 5 flacon we know today was conceived in 1924 by the designer Jean Helleu, embodying the elegance and minimalism that Chanel herself championed. The bottle’s design was deeply personal to Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, reflecting her preference for a distinctive, streamlined "house style." This preference mirrored that of Jeanne Lanvin, who also favored a signature bottle style for her fragrances. The flacon was deliberately stripped of unnecessary embellishments, focusing instead on clean lines and sophisticated simplicity. This marked a departure from the more ornate and decorative perfume bottles of the time, which were often intricate and fussy. Chanel's vision was to create a bottle that was as timeless as the fragrance it contained, one that could represent both modernity and class.
The origins of the original Chanel bottle are steeped in personal sentiment. It was modeled after a toiletry bottle from a travel set owned by Chanel’s lover, Captain Arthur Boy Capel. Capel, who tragically died in a car accident in 1919, had a significant influence on Chanel’s life and work. The bottle served as a memento of their time together and was a tangible connection to a love lost. According to Christie Mayer Lefkowith, while Jean Helleu is credited with the final design in 1924, it was Julien Viard who crafted the very first Chanel perfume bottle. Lefkowith also notes that the official creation of the Chanel perfume company occurred in 1920, shortly before the brand began producing its now-legendary fragrances.
The care with which the Chanel No. 5 bottle was designed extends to its use, with detailed instructions on how to open the stopper. In 1963, Parfums Chanel provided a precise method for opening the flacon: removing the cord and paper, then using an index finger as a cushion to tap gently beneath the stopper with a glass object. The bottle should be rotated steadily between the fingers to ensure the stopper loosens evenly. This careful procedure reflects the attention to detail and craftsmanship that has always been part of Chanel’s approach to both perfume and its presentation.
Interestingly, counterfeit Chanel No. 5 bottles have mimicked these instructions, often adding their own version of the “removal instructions.” However, these versions are not authentic. For instance, a fake paper insert might read "Chanel Incorporated" instead of the correct "Chanel Inc." It also typically omits crucial steps, such as the instruction to “Remove skin and cord,” which further helps differentiate an authentic bottle from a counterfeit. The subtle differences in these details serve as a testament to the importance of precision and authenticity in maintaining the integrity of the Chanel brand.
By the 1960s, the original Parfum was available in the following:
- 1/4 oz
- 1/2 oz
- 1 oz
- 2 oz
- 4 oz
- 1/4 oz Spray
The original Eau de Toilette was available in the following:
- 4 oz
- 8 oz
- 16 oz
Parfum de Toilette Spray
The fragrance was also available in
- Dusting Powder
- After Bath Oil Spray
- Box of 3 soaps
Concentrations & Ancillary Products:
Chanel Nº 5 was available as:
- 1921 - Extrait (Parfum/Perfume)
- 1924 - Eau de Toilette (splash)
- 1924 - Face Powder
- 1928 - 1937 - Eau de Toilette (Cube Bottle) in Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia.
- 1928 - 1937- Eau de Toilette (Cylinder Bottle) in Jasmin and Bois Des Iles.
- 1930 - Huile Tan Pour L'Ete/Tanning Oil
- 1932 - Savon de Toilette/Soap
- 1932 - Astringent pour L'Épiderme/Skin Tonic
- 1932 - Creme de Beaute/Face Cream
- 1937 - After Bath Powder
- 1938 - Talc
- 1938 - Dusting Powder
- 1939 - Eau de Cologne (splash)
- 1958 - Parfum Spray
- 1958 - Spray Cologne
- 1962 - Oil for the Bath/Bath oil/Huile de Bain
- 1966 - After Bath Oil
- 1970 - The Voile Parfumée
- 1971 - Body Lotion
- 1971 - Eau de Chanel No. 5
- 1986 - Eau de Parfum (splash)
- 1995 - Voile Parfumé (the new version)
- 1997 - Eau de Parfum Spray
- 2005 - Sensual Elixir
- 2007 - Eau Premiere
- 2016 - Chanel No. 5 L'Eau
Chanel No. 5, which was launched in 1921, has had an extensive and evolving range of offerings, each reflecting the changes in perfume trends, technologies, and consumer preferences over the years. The original and most luxurious version, the Extrait de Parfum (or simply Parfum), debuted in 1921. This concentration remains the epitome of elegance and refinement, containing the purest essence of the fragrance. Notably, the Extrait includes rose oil and jasmine absolute sourced from the renowned Grasse region in France, famous for producing some of the world’s finest floral ingredients. Additionally, the Extrait is sealed by hand using the traditional technique of baudruchage, ensuring its exquisite craftsmanship and preserving its rich, concentrated aroma.
In 1924, Chanel expanded the availability of No. 5 with the introduction of the Eau de Toilette in a splash bottle, designed to be lighter and more refreshing than the intense parfum. The Eau de Toilette retained the floral character of No. 5 but with a more airy and less concentrated presence, perfect for everyday wear. That same year also saw the release of Chanel No. 5 Face Powder, an elegant way for women to carry the fragrance on their skin throughout the day, adding a delicate touch of scent with every application.
From 1928 to 1937, the Eau de Toilette was available in two distinct forms: the Cube Bottle and the Cylinder Bottle. The Cube Bottle housed different Chanel fragrances, including Chanel No.5 Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. The Cylinder Bottle, on the other hand, was reserved for the Chanel No. 5, Jasmin and Bois des Iles fragrances.
In 1930, Chanel introduced Huile Tan Pour L'Ete (Tanning Oil), providing a way for customers to enjoy the scent of No. 5 while indulging in sunbathing, combining both beauty and fragrance in a luxurious summer ritual. This was followed by the 1932 release of several body products, including Savon de Toilette (Soap), Astringent pour l'Épiderme (Skin Tonic), and Crème de Beauté (Face Cream), all designed to enhance the skincare routine and infuse the body with the iconic scent of No. 5.
In 1937, Chanel launched two variations of powder: After Bath Powder and Talc, providing the perfect way to layer the fragrance throughout the day. Dusting Powder followed in 1938, continuing the tradition of integrating No. 5 into daily personal care.
By 1939, Eau de Cologne in a splash bottle was introduced, offering a lighter, more refreshing version of the original fragrance, perfect for daily use or for those seeking a more subtle presence of No. 5. Then, in 1958, Chanel made history with the introduction of the Parfum Spray and Spray Cologne, revolutionizing the way fragrance was applied, making it more convenient and modern for the everyday user.
The 1960s saw further innovations, with the launch of Oil for the Bath (Huile de Bain) in 1962 and the After Bath Oil in 1966, allowing consumers to indulge in the scent of No. 5 in a luxurious, sensual bath experience. In 1970, The Voile Parfumée was introduced, offering a delicate mist of fragrance for the body, and in 1971, Body Lotion and Eau de Chanel No. 5 were released, enhancing the versatility of No. 5 as both a fragrance and a luxurious body treatment.
In 1986, the Eau de Parfum (splash) was launched, providing a more concentrated version of the Eau de Toilette, while still being more accessible than the Extrait. This was followed in 1995 by the release of a new version of Voile Parfumé, offering a more modern take on the iconic misted fragrance. In 1997, the Eau de Parfum Spray was introduced, making it easier to wear No. 5 in a more modern and convenient format.
In 2005, Chanel launched Sensual Elixir, a more intense and seductive version of the fragrance, catering to those who sought a richer, deeper experience. In 2007, Eau Première was introduced, offering a softer, more delicate interpretation of No. 5 for those who preferred a lighter touch. Finally, in 2016, Chanel No. 5 L'Eau was released, modernizing the fragrance for a new generation with a fresher, more contemporary feel while still preserving the essence of the original.
Throughout all these variations, the formulations of Chanel No. 5 have remained distinct, with only the Extrait containing the luxurious rose oil and jasmine absolute from Grasse. Each version—whether it’s the Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, or other formulations—differs slightly in concentration, formula, and method of production. While the Extrait is hand-bottled and the most intense, the Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum are machine-filled and offer slightly lighter versions of the fragrance, catering to a range of preferences in fragrance strength and presentation. These distinctions allow Chanel No. 5 to remain a versatile and enduring symbol of luxury for nearly a century.
In 1937, Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 40 - Page 511 described Chanel's gift package as an epitome of luxury and refinement. The presentation, which featured a crystal bottle of Chanel No. 5, was set within a satin jewel case, exuding a sense of timeless elegance. The package's design was lauded for its "rich simplicity," emphasizing the understated yet luxurious nature of Chanel's offerings. The gift set was presented as a perfect choice for any occasion, highlighting its versatility and appeal as an exceptional gift. This description reflects the sophisticated and refined image Chanel No. 5 sought to convey during this period, making it not just a fragrance but an experience of opulence.
A 1939 article in the Berkeley Daily Gazette further illustrates Chanel's strategic positioning of their fragrances as accessible luxury. The article highlights the recent arrival of Chanel colognes, offering a lighter, more affordable alternative to the more expensive parfum. The cologne was described as a "mere suggestion of perfume," a subtle and refreshing option that was priced reasonably—$1.50 for a small bottle and $5.00 for a larger size. This made Chanel's fragrances more accessible to a broader audience while maintaining their association with elegance. The article also mentions a charming Chanel gift set, which included cologne and matching talc in beautiful packaging, further solidifying the brand’s reputation for luxurious yet thoughtful gifting options.
By 1952, L'Atlantique had already recognized the enduring legacy of Chanel No. 5. The fragrance was described as so legendary that it had firmly established itself as a bestseller for the house of Chanel, with sales consistently increasing despite the competition from other perfume houses and new fragrances. Even other popular Chanel fragrances such as Bois des Iles, Gardenia, and Cuir de Russie could not diminish the prestige of No. 5. This enduring success illustrates the iconic status Chanel No. 5 had achieved by mid-century, becoming synonymous with luxury, timelessness, and unparalleled prestige in the world of fragrance.
The Wertheimer and Chanel Controversy:
In the early 1920s, Chanel's focus was primarily on fashion, and it was her 1924 collection, which featured the iconic "little black dress," that firmly established her reputation as a designer. This collection would become one of her most defining moments, securing her place in the history of fashion. That same year marked a significant turning point for Chanel's fragrance business. Theophilus Bader, who had heard of Chanel and her perfume through his lover, couturier Madeleine Vionnet, saw an opportunity. Recognizing the potential of Chanel's fragrances, Bader introduced her to his partner, Ernest Wertheimer, setting the stage for the creation of Parfums Chanel, his Galeries Lafayette and Bourjois cosmetics.
In 1924, Pierre Wertheimer became Coco Chanel’s business partner in her perfume venture, establishing Perfumes Chanel. The ownership was divided with Pierre Wertheimer holding 70%, Chanel owning 10%, and Theophilus Bader taking the remaining 20%. At the time, Chanel was not yet the global icon she would become, and her perfume business was still relatively small. Chanel agreed to the arrangement, given that her perfume line was not yet a significant part of her brand.
With the formation of Parfums Chanel, the company took over the perfume operations, introducing a new signature bottle designed by Jean Helleu. This cut-glass flacon became synonymous with Chanel No. 5, which was relaunching under the new management. In the same year, Ernest Beaux, a perfumer who had previously worked with Eugene Charabot, joined the company as the technical director for both Bourjois and Parfums Chanel. Beaux would go on to create several iconic fragrances for Chanel, including Cuir de Russie (1924), Gardénia (1925), and Bois des Iles (1926). The fragrance Chanel No. 22, first launched in 1922 and officially re-released in 1926, is also considered a product of Beaux's influence and may have had roots in the Rallet No. 1 modifications from 1919 to 1921.
In the mid-1920s, Beaux's departure from his previous employer, Chiris, caused some tension. Chiris's successor, Vincent Roubert, was tasked with creating a version of the Bouquet de Catherine, which had ties to earlier Rallet perfumes. Roubert's adaptation led to the creation of L'Aimant (Coty, 1926), a fragrance that briefly posed a threat to the success of Chanel No. 5. However, as Chanel's fame grew, she began to feel that she was being taken advantage of by Bader and Wertheimer, which led to further tensions within the business.
In 1946, Chanel launched Mademoiselle Chanel No. 1, a perfume by Ernest Beaux, that featured a prominent orris/violet accord, replacing the aldehydic overdose of the original Chanel No. 5 formula. However, judicial action in France prevented her from selling this version, as it was considered a counterfeiting issue. Despite this, Chanel managed to distribute the perfume informally, sending it to her friends in New York at Saks Fifth Avenue and to Texas at Neiman Marcus. When customers became puzzled by the similarity to No. 5, Wertheimer was eventually convinced to increase Chanel’s share in the company.
By 1947, Chanel and Wertheimer had reconciled, and when Chanel sought to revive her couture house, Wertheimer provided financial backing. The fragrance continued to soar in popularity, particularly after movie star Marilyn Monroe famously stated in 1953 that she wore "Five drops of No. 5" to bed, alluding that she slept in the nude with only perfume cloaking her body. This endorsement further cemented the fragrance's legendary status. The classic Chanel No. 5 flacon, designed by Jean Helleu in 1924, contributed significantly to the scent’s fame and is now displayed in the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York City, a testament to its lasting influence.
Today, the Wertheimer family continues to run Parfums Chanel, maintaining the legacy of the fragrance business. In an interesting historical note, the first advertisement for Chanel No. 5 aired on British TV’s Channel 5, further solidifying the iconic status of this timeless fragrance.
Famous Patrons:
Over the years, Chanel No. 5 has been represented by an array of iconic spokesmodels, each helping to elevate the fragrance’s legendary status. One of the most famous faces associated with Chanel No. 5 was the Hollywood legend Marilyn Monroe, who famously declared that she wore "five drops of No. 5" to bed. Monroe’s endorsement of the fragrance became one of the most memorable and enduring moments in the brand's history, solidifying the perfume’s connection to glamour and sophistication.
Following Monroe, several other notable actresses have lent their faces to the fragrance. French actress Catherine Deneuve, renowned for her elegance and timeless beauty, became one of Chanel No. 5’s prominent spokesmodels. Vanessa Paradis, a French singer and actress, also represented the perfume, bringing her unique charm to the campaign. Carole Bouquet, another French actress, further cemented the fragrance’s connection to classic French beauty. Estella Warren, a Canadian actress and model, also featured in Chanel No. 5’s campaigns, contributing to its international appeal.
Perhaps one of the most memorable and high-profile campaigns took place in 2004 when Australian actress Nicole Kidman became the face of Chanel No. 5. Directed by Baz Luhrmann and filmed by Mandy Walker, the campaign was a multi-million-dollar commercial entitled No. 5 The Film. In this cinematic piece, Kidman starred opposite Rodrigo Santoro, portraying a dramatic and glamorous love story. The lavish short film’s artistry and grand scale were fitting for the perfume's luxurious reputation, showcasing Chanel No. 5’s enduring allure.
In 2009, Audrey Tautou, known for her portrayal of Coco Chanel in the biographical film Coco Before Chanel (originally titled Coco avant Chanel), was chosen as the latest face of Chanel No. 5. Tautou’s connection to the brand deepened due to her role as the iconic designer, and she appeared in the second short film for the fragrance. Directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet, the film was released on May 5th, 2009, exactly 88 years after Chanel No. 5 was first introduced. This date—5/5—was a nod to the perfume's signature name, and the film celebrated the fragrance’s rich history while capturing its timeless elegance.
Examples of Authentic Chanel Perfume Bottles and Ancillary Products:
Original 1921 Parfum Extrait Flacon
Original 1920s Parfum Extrait Flacons
Parfum comes in 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz sizes. The now and forever fragrance. The ultimate in femininity. The most powerful, concentrated and long-lasting form of fragrance; the fullest expression of the perfumer's art. The classic bottle signifies personal luxury and is an attractive addition to any dressing table.
Parfum Purse Spray. Comes in 0.25 oz size only. The now and forever fragrance in a chic purse presentation. This sleek black lacquer refillable spray is a modern version of the original N°5 purse spray, and goes everywhere in a flacon every bit as elegant and sophisticated as the fragrance itself — and as the woman who wears it.
Eau de Parfum Refillable Spray. Comes in 1.7 oz sizes only. Refills are also available in 1.7 oz. The now and forever fragrance. The ultimate in femininity. An elegant, luxurious spray closest in strength and character to the parfum form. The sleek, portable signature bottle is perfect for the dressing table or travel.
Eau de Toilette Splash. Comes in 3.4 oz size only. The ultimate in femininity. Lighter, more relaxed fragrance form is designed for lavish use all over the body.
Eau de Toilette Spray. Comes in 1.2 oz, 1.7 oz and 3.4 oz sizes. The now and forever fragrance in a dynamic, slender flaçon with an ingenious spray cap. Lighter, more relaxed rendition of the legendary N°5 can be used lavishly all over the body. Delicately light and softly sensual.
Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 59, 1968:
"New Chanel Product. The illustration below shows Chanel No. 5 Eau de Toilette Diffuseur in its new container. This is not only practical to use ( you can see how much you have left) but is also very attractive. The diffuseur is easily refilled from the normal Chanel eau de toilette bottle."
Eau de Toilette Refillable Spray. Comes in 1.7 oz and 2.5 oz. A 1.7 oz Refill is also available. The now and forever fragrance. The ultimate in femininity. The world's most treasured scent in a lighter, more relaxed fragrance form -- a refillable spray. Delicately light and softly sensual.
Chanel No. 5 Sensual Elixir. Comes in 1.7 oz size only. A voluptuous way of intensifying the fragrance experience. The fluid peach-coloured gel, captured in an elegant flaçon, takes the art of seductive pleasure to new levels of enjoyment. The ultimate indulgence, the effect is instantly captivating, soft and deeply fragranced.
Body Satin Spray. Comes in 4.2 oz size only. Innovative dry-oil spray mists on to soften, smooth and scent skin with timeless N°5 fragrance. Emollient ingredients combine with the inimitable scent of N°5 for a silky, lustrous fragrance and feel. Moisturizing and skin-glistening effect leaves no greasy after feel.
Essential Bath Oils. Comes in 6.8 oz size only. Innovative oils scented with inimitable N°5 contain emollients, moisturizers and conditioners. Three pastel layers combine when shaken into a blend of pampering treatment that softens, hydrates, soothes and scents.
Velvet Milk Bath. Comes in 13.5 oz size only. Elevating the bathing ritual, the milky texture transforms into a rich, luxurious foam that envelops the body with the seductive fragrance of N°5. Softens, smooths and comforts the skin.
Bath Gel. Comes in 6.8 oz size only. Moisturizing and cleansing gel leaves skin lightly fragranced with the now and forever fragrance of N°5. Produces a rich, creamy foam that cleanses the skin gently, turning the bath or shower into a refreshing, relaxing environment.
Bath Soap. Comes in 150g size only. Creamy, long-lasting, hard-milled soap with Vitamin E provides gentle cleansing action, as it helps soothe and protect skin. Leaves skin lightly scented with the now and forever fragrance of N°5. Gentle enough for the most delicate skin.
The Foaming Bath. This sensorial formula soothes the body with a luxurious lather, and leaves skin lightly scented with the now and forever fragrance. 6.8 oz.
The Cleansing Cream. This luxurious formula moisturizes and cleanses skin with a delicately scented, foaming lather. 6.8 oz.
Velvet Body Cream. Comes in 150g size only. Rich, velvety cream glides on luxuriously to hydrate, soften and scent. Skin is deliciously smooth, irresistibly touchable and delicately fragranced.
After Bath Powder. Silky powder absorbs moisture after a bath, leaving skin scented with inimitable N°5. Unique loose powder absorbs moisture for cooling comfort as it imparts a light, luminous finish, leaving skin soft, silky and scented. Contains Vitamin E and essential amino acids to protect from free radical and environmental damage.
Intense Bath Oil. This indulgent form of the legendary fragrance elevates a woman’s bathing ritual with its unique and precious texture. A few drops, infused into warm water, create a soothing, velvety bath that envelops the body and stimulates the senses with the luxurious scent of N°5.
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