How to Date Chanel Bottles

In this guide I will try to help you accurately date your Chanel bottle. Be sure to look over the entire page for the most information.

• All Chanel perfumes appear in the signature Chanel bottle based on the original Sem design. 

• Most Chanel bottles have been made by Verreries Brosse and usually the bases will be embossed with a VB or BR logo, molded with the name Chanel into the glass. 

• My research has concluded that some parfum bottles, including miniatures were made by Pochet et du Courval, their marking is a small HP molded into the glass - along with the name Chanel (if it does not say Chanel in the glass - it is fake). These HP bottles date from 1970s-1990s. The minis that are marked with HP were often sold in the "wardrobe" sets.

• From the 1920s until 1951, the small "o" used in any perfume beginning with No. (number), will have a dot underneath it, after 1951, the dot disappears. 

• During the Second World War, some boxes had notes tucked inside reading in French: "En raison de la pénurie de la verrerie, nous prions instamment nos clients de bien vouloir rapporter leurs fournisseurs a l'occasion d'un nouvel achat, leurs flacons vides, si possible dans leur emballage d'origine ces flacons leur seront rembourses. Les Parfums Chanel." In English - "Due to the shortage of glassware, we urge our customers to kindly return their empty bottles to suppliers when making a new purchase, if possible in their original packaging these bottles will be refunded to them. Chanel Perfumes.."

• From 1970-1987, all Chanel's pure parfums will be marked with the word "Perfume" underneath the fragrance name. Starting in 1988, we see the word "Parfum" used instead.

• Starting in 1987, the words Paris/New York are added to Eau de Parfums.

• Black striped boxes used up until 1958.

• The words "Chanel Inc., New York Distributor" was used from 1938 and into the 1960s. Chanel Inc - the distribution channel for the perfumes in the United States, their headquarters was at 35 West Thirty Fourth Street, New York City. Starting in 1938, the factory was engaged in the mixing and compounding of perfumes, powders, cosmetics and other products. Chanel Inc.  imported the perfume essences from France and then mixed with domestic alcohol and water, then bottled, labeled, packaged, sells, ships and distributed fragrances in USA. Sometimes you may find a label saying "compounded in USA." In order to prevent confusion to the consumer, the US distributor was forbidden to use the words "France" or "Paris" on labeling or packaging, because it was appear that the perfumes or products were made, bottled, sealed and imported from France, which was not the case. If the name such as "Gardenia de Chanel" or "Glamour de Chanel" or "Jasmin de Chanel" were used, the appropriate action would to include a label stating the items were compounded in the USA. Also, this is when you see labels and packaging marked in English, "Russia Leather" or "Woods of the Isles".  

• .Chanel has a registered office at 19-21 Old Bond Street, London, so if your bottle or package is marked with "W1X 3DA"   it merely stands for the post code and that it was compounded in London for Chanel. Perfume essences and cosmetics were imported from France and mixed using domestic alcohol and water to save costs on custom's duties which can be very expensive. Then the products were bottled, labeled, packaged, sold and distributed throughout the British market.

• The familiar black and gold cologne sprays were introduced in 1958, they were metered to expel 800 sprays in each bottle. Light and sturdy, designed by Chanel for the age of air travel.

• The refillable Eau de Toilette "Diffuseurs" (sprays) were available from 1968 through the early 1970s.

• Cologne and talc was used from 1939 - onwards

• If there is a barcode on the box, this perfume dates to after 1989. 

• Starting in 1992, the Green Dot recycling symbol will appear on the box.

• From 1998-2003, a short list of ingredients are listed on the box.

• By 2004, there will be a long list of ingredients listed on the box.

Decipher the numbers found on the extrait boxes to determine the size of your bottle:

• No. 200 = 1/2 oz (15 ml)
• No. 201 = 1 oz (30 ml)
• No. 202 = 2 oz (60 ml)
• No. 203 = 3 oz (90 ml)
• No. 207 = 1/4 oz (the little "tester" bottles 2.25" tall with oval glass stoppers with long dauber)
• No. 209 = 1/4 oz (7 ml)
• No. 210 = 1/4 oz
• No. 211 = 1/3 oz (9ml)
• 15.2 oz
• size 4 = 4 oz 
• 1.75 oz
• size 7 = 1 oz
• size 8 = 1/2 oz
• size 8 N = 1/2 oz
• size 9 = 1/4 oz
• size 10 = 1/4 oz (the little "tester" bottles 2.25" tall with oval glass stoppers with long dauber)
• size 11 = 1/3 oz 

Decipher the letters found on the extrait boxes to determine the size of your bottle:

• T.T.P.M = 1/4 oz (Tres Tres Petit Modele/Very Very or Extra Extra Small)
• M.T.P.M. = 1/3 oz (Moyen Tres Petit Modele)? 
• T.P.M. = 1/2 oz (Tres Petit Modele/Very or Extra Small)
• P.M. (Petit Modele/Small) = 1 oz 
• M.M. (Moyen Modele/Medium) = 2 oz
• G.M. (Grand Modele/Large) = 4 oz
• T.G.M. (Tres Grand Modele/Very or Extra Large) = 8 oz

Other catalog numbers found on boxes:

• No. 1512 = 2 ml? Parfum Mini Bottles  
• No. 110.50 = 7.5 ml? Parfum Purse Bottle (Flacon Pour le Sac)
• No. 1.200.91 = 14 ml Parfum Splash  
• No. 120.061 = 14 ml Parfum Splash  
• No. 120.991 = 7 ml Parfum Splash  
• No. 120.091 = 14 ml Parfum Splash 
• No. 120.51 = 14 ml Parfum Splash   
• No. 1.209.51 = 7 ml Parfum Splash 

• No. 115350 = 60 ml (2 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash (TPM - Tres Petit Modele)
• No. 1302 = 60ml (2 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash (TPM - Tres Petit Modele)
• No. 1303 = 120 ml (4 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash (PM - Petit Modele)
• No. 13035 = 120 ml (4 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash (PM - Petit Modele)
• No. 130451 = 246 ml (8.2 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash (MM - Moyen Modele)
• No. 13055 = 500 ml (16.9 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash (GM - Grand Modele)

• No. 375 - 1.5 oz Eau de Cologne Splash  
• No. 376 - 2 oz Eau de Cologne Splash  
• No. 380 - 3.2 oz  Eau de Cologne Splash  
• No. 1482 - 2 oz Eau de Cologne Splash   (TPM - Tres Petit Modele)
• No. 1483 - 4 oz Eau de Cologne Splash (PM - Petit Modele)
• No. 1484 - 8 oz Eau de Cologne Splash (MM - Moyen Modele)
• No. 1.484.51 - 8 oz Eau de Cologne Splash 
• No. 1485 - 16 oz Eau de Cologne Splash 
• No. 1612 - Eau de Cologne Splash 

• No. 1.303 = 1/8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash 
• No. 1.302.91 = 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (TPM - Tres Petit Modele)
• No. 1.303.91 = 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (PM - Petite Modele)
• No. 102.462 = 100 ml (3.4 oz) Eau de Toilette Spray 
• No. 105.460 = 100 ml (3.38 oz) Eau de Toilette Spray
• No. 118.360 = 100 ml (3.4 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash 
• No. 119.360 = 100 ml (3.4 oz) Eau de Toilette Splash 
• No. 119.460 = 100 ml (3.4 oz) Eau de Toilette Spray 
• No. 119.490 = 100ml (3.4 oz) Eau de Parfum Spray 
• No. 122.466 = 100 ml (3.4 oz) Eau de Toilette Spray

• No. 1202 - 2 oz Lotion (an after bath splash)

A 1928 newspaper advertisements reads:

 "Just Unpacked - Chanel's New Perfumes! Chanel is one of those Paris designers who are autocratic about about the question of perfume. "It should not only match your mood, but your costume" she exclaims. And shows you what she means by inventing new fragrances, Magnolia, suits suits simply cut afternoon dress and ingenue expression. $12.50. And No. 5 suggests myrrh, hawthorn heaped with flower, roses of Oriental gardens, your most sophisticated gown and casual air, if you please! $22.50. No. 22, $22.50. Toilet water $6.00."

A 1925 newspaper ad reads:

 "A New Perfume From Chanel. In Gardenia, the latest creation from this house, has imprisoned the romantic sweetness of the natural blossoms. In dainty containers suitable for the boudoir. Perfume $11.50, $15.00 and $26.00. Toilet water $9.00".

In 1928:

" Introducing Chanel's new perfume first at Mandel's ... bring to Chicago this exquisite odeur that she calls "Le Parfum special de Chanel . . . there are six..."

Questioned about her attitude toward perfumes, especially the flower perfumes, Mlle. Chanel said:

"Real perfume is mysterious, but the perfume which many women use is not mysterious. Women are not flowers. Why should they want to smell like flowers?” I like roses, and the smell of the rose is very beautiful, but I do not want a woman to smell like a rose."

A 1939 newspaper article in the Berkeley Daily Gazette reads :

"We were pleased to discover that there is a recent arrival. Chanel's exquisite fragrances in the form of colognes is the thing to wear. And it's a mere suggestion of perfume, cologne's the thing to wear. And it's much more reasonable than perfume. A small bottle of Chanel's cologne in any of your favorite scents is $1.50. large size bottles $5.00. There's an awfully nice Chanel gift set too, cologne and talc in matching scents, beautifully boxed for $5.00."

Chanel knew the importance of expanding their perfumery range to include various ancillary products to suit the wearer's preference for fragrance strengths. Chanel also introduced various gift sets in either perfumes or perfumes with ancillaries.

Concentrations & Ancillary Products:

• 1921 - Chanel No. 5 Extrait (Parfum/Perfume) 
• 1924 - Eau de Toilette (splash) 
• 1924 - Face Powder (Gardenia & No. 5)
• 1926 - Talc 
• 1927 - Creme de Beaute/Face Cream
• 1927 - Lotion (for the face)
• 1927 - Creme de Toilette (for cleansing the face)
• 1927 - Creme Astringents  (an astringent for enlarged pores)
• 1927 - Creme de Massage (softens the skin, removes impurities)
• 1927 - Creme Pour le Nuit (to nourish, soften & fortify the skin)
• 1927 - Liquid Face Powder
• 1927 - Rouge Gras (cream rouge)
• 1927 - Huile de Jasmine (massage oil)
• 1927 - Poudre Toilette (for after the bath)
• 1927 - Pate Chanel (for whitening & beautifying the skin) 
• 1927 - 1941 - Eau de Toilette (Cube Bottle) in No. 5, No. 22, No. 21, Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 
• 1927 - 1937 - Eau de Toilette (Cylinder Bottle) in Jasmin and Bois Des Iles. 
• 1927 - Astringent pour L'Epiderme/Skin Tonic
• 1930 - Huile Tan Pour L'Ete/Tanning Oil 
• 1932 - Savon de Toilette/Soap 
• 1937 - After Bath Powder 
• 1936 - Eau de Cologne (splash) in Chanel No.5, Cuir de Russie & Gardenia
• 1938 - Dusting Powder 
• 1940 - Eau de Cologne (Splash) in Chanel No. 22
• 1958 - Parfum Spray 
• 1958 - Spray Cologne 
• 1962 - Oil for the Bath/Bath oil/Huile de Bain 
• 1966 - After Bath Oil 
• 1970 - Chanel No. 19
• 1970 - The Voile Parfumee 
• 1971 - Body Lotion 
• 1971 - Eau de Chanel No. 5 
• 1986 - Eau de Parfum (splash) 
• 1997 - Eau de Parfum Spray 
• 2005 - Chanel No. 5 Sensual Elixir 
• 2007 - Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere 

All differ slightly in their formulation, and only the Extrait Perfume contains rose oil and jasmine absolute from the Grasse region, and is sealed by hand in a method known as baudruchage. The Eau de Toilette and the Eau de Parfum differ also from one another not only in their concentration but also their formula, and are bottled and filled by machine.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 40 - Page 511, 1937:

"The Chanel gift package is an exquisite presentation of a crystal bottle in a satin jewel case, magnificent in its rich simplicity. It is a gift for all occasions."

A 1939 newspaper article in the Berkeley Daily Gazette reads:

"We were pleased to discover that there is a recent arrival. Chanel's exquisite fragrances in the form of colognes is the thing to wear. And it's a mere suggestion of perfume, cologne's the thing to wear. And it's much more reasonable than perfume. A small bottle of Chanel's cologne in any of your favorite scents is $1.50. large size bottles $5.00. There's an awfully nice Chanel gift set too, cologne and talc in matching scents, beautifully boxed for $5.00."

The cube bottles were used from 1927 to around 1941 and held the Eau de Toilettes for No. 5, Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia.

One such gift set was the Three Moods Presentation from 1934. The presentation box can be found in both a round and rectangular shaped box, both boxes held three small bottles of perfume.  This gift set was sold well into the 1950s and could be had in various different Chanel perfumes.

Berkeley Daily Gazette, 1939 :

"Chanel feels that perfume induces various moods. He [sic] offers a package of three of his[sic] most exquisite perfumes. Gardenia, Chanel No. 5 and Glamour in the hope they will be conducive to your happiest most pleasant feelings. All three perfumes are definitely the last word in smells. The set called "Three Moods" is priced at $6.75."

Classic Chanel Parfum & Eau de Parfum Bottle Designs: 

Bottle Closeups and comments:

 #1. Original 1921 Sem designed bottle with rounded corners, small square stopper (not faceted - but has the CC logo intaglio), thin walls. Small label. See examples in ad below.

 #2. Another 1921 bottle, tiny square stopper (not faceted- but has the CC logo intaglio)), smaller and now with sharper corners, short neck, thin walls. Small label.  

#3. 1924 bottle with new stopper design which is faceted and now a rectangular, emerald cut shape and bottle has thicker walls and a fatter neck. Notice how the label is now larger.

• The 2 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall.
• The 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall.
• The 1/2 oz bottle stands 2 1/8" tall.
• The 1/4 oz bottle stands 1 7/8" tall.

#4. 1950 bottle with thicker stopper, still in the rectangular emerald cut shape though this time it isn't as wide as its predecessor, thicker neck and the bottle has thicker walls and notched shoulders. Label still large.

• The 1 oz bottle stands 3 1/4" tall
• The 1/2 oz bottle stands 2 1/2" tall.
• The 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall.

 #5. 1970 bottle when stopper was at its thickest, still faceted, rectangular and emerald cut and this time its width is longer like on the 1924 bottle, and the walls of the bottle were thick, also neck is fatter. Label still large. Parfum bottles dating from the 1970s-1990s manufactured by Pochet et du Courval have plastemeri caps on the stopper plugs.

• The 10 oz Factice bottle stands 5.9" tall.
• The 1 oz bottle stands 
• The 1/2 oz bottle stands 
• The 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall.

 #6. 1986 bottle, taller in size, created for the eau de parfum splash, with simplified rectangular,emerald cut, faceted stopper, this time not as wide as the previous bottle, again, the walls of the bottle are thick. Label is medium sized in relation to the size of the bottle. The eau de parfum spray bottle has a similar stopper that fits over a spray mechanism. The measurements given below apply to the splash bottles only.

• The 3.3 oz bottle stands 4.4" tall.
• The 1.7 oz bottle stands 
• The 1 oz bottle stands 

Note: not pictured, but I thought I would mention it, the little tester bottles with the oval disk stoppers stand 2 3/8" tall.

Chanel Spray Bottles:

The 1.4 oz Refillable Spray bottle used for the Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum was introduced in 1986 with the debut of the Eau de Parfum. I am unsure of how long this was in use as I only saw it advertised until 1987 in vintage newspaper advertisements.

To further date your bottle, see my friend's website: http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.com/2014/01/how-to-recognize-chanel-perfumes.html


How To Open Your Chanel Bottle:

An instruction manual was inserted inside boxes of parfum extrait, explaining how to correctly open the perfume bottles without breaking the stoppers.

"Perfumes must be closed tightly to avoid evaporation, leakage and finally deterioration. If you experience any difficulty in opening this bottle, the following procedure should be adopted: 

• Remove skin and cord. 

• Take bottle in hand, resting lightly against top of index finger to act as a cushion. 

• Then tap the under sides of the stopper lightly with preferably another glass bottle or other handy light object, (avoiding any sharp edged article) at the same time turning the bottle steadily between the fingers. 

This will loosen the stopper evenly all around. If stopper is loosened in one place only, it is apt to break when trying to remove it from the bottle."