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Saturday, June 8, 2024

Iris de Chanel c1926

"Iris de Chanel," introduced in 1926, marks a pivotal moment in the history of fragrance. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, this scent embodies the timeless elegance and sophistication synonymous with the Chanel brand. Inspired by the delicate beauty of the iris flower, it captures the essence of femininity and refinement with its captivating aroma. Since its launch, "Iris de Chanel" has remained a cherished treasure among fragrance enthusiasts, revered for its classic allure and enduring legacy.






Given the time period and Chanel's collaboration with perfumer Ernest Beaux on several iconic fragrances, it's highly likely that "Iris de Chanel" was indeed composed by Beaux. His unparalleled expertise and innovative approach to perfumery would have perfectly complemented Chanel's vision for this elegant and sophisticated scent, ensuring that it captured the essence of the iris flower with unparalleled grace and refinement.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: neroli, cassie, aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes: violet, orris, rose, ylang ylang, jasmine
  • Base notes: musk, vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, irisone, ionone, heliotropin

In the 1920s, iris perfumes typically featured a carefully curated blend of ingredients to capture the delicate and elegant essence of the iris flower. Based on other iris based perfumes of the period, I believe the composition would look something like this:


Top Notes:

Citrus notes such as bergamot or neroli may be used sparingly to provide a subtle freshness and brightness to the fragrance, balancing the richness of the iris accord. Providing a burst of freshness and brightness, neroli adds a vibrant and uplifting touch to the fragrance. 

With its sweet and powdery aroma, cassie enhances the floral bouquet, lending depth and complexity. The synthetic compounds of aldehydes create a sparkling and effervescent quality, adding a sense of elegance and sophistication to the opening of the perfume.


Middle Notes:

Violet contributes a soft, powdery sweetness, complementing the orris root and adding a romantic floral quality to the heart of the fragrance. Derived from the rhizome of the iris plant, orris root provides a rich, earthy, and slightly powdery aroma, serving as the centerpiece of the composition. Often used in conjunction with orris root, violet contributes a subtle floral sweetness and powdery quality, enhancing the iris accord and adding a touch of romanticism to the fragrance. 

Rose adds a timeless and feminine elegance, infusing the fragrance with its delicate floral aroma. Known for its exotic and intoxicating scent, ylang-ylang adds a sweet and creamy floral note, enhancing the overall richness of the perfume. Jasmine contributes a heady and sensual aroma, imbuing the fragrance with a luxurious and seductive quality.


Base Notes:

Musk provides a soft, sensual undertone to iris perfumes, adding warmth and depth to the overall scent profile. It helps to anchor the fragrance and prolong its longevity on the skin. Vetiver lends a woody and earthy aroma, grounding the composition and adding a touch of rugged sophistication. 

Woodsy elements such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver are often used to complement the floral and powdery facets of iris. These notes add a touch of sophistication and elegance to the composition, creating a well-rounded olfactory experience. Sandalwood offers a creamy and smooth texture, imparting a sense of luxury and refinement to the fragrance. Oakmoss adds a green and slightly woody aroma, enhancing the longevity of the perfume and providing depth and complexity. 

The perfume is centered around certain aromachemicals such as Irisone, ionone, and heliotropin. These synthetic compounds mimic the scent of iris, violet, and heliotrope, respectively, adding a modern twist to the classic iris perfume while enhancing its powdery and floral facets.

By harmoniously blending these exquisite ingredients, perfumers in the 1920s created iris perfumes that captivated the senses, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and sophistication.


Bottles:




Fate of the Fragrance:



"Iris de Chanel," a fragrance of legendary status, has become exceedingly rare and elusive in the realm of vintage perfumery. Discontinued long ago, it stands as one of the most prized treasures among Chanel's early creations, sought after by collectors and connoisseurs alike. If by chance you encounter a bottle of this rare gem, seize the opportunity without hesitation, for it may be the only chance to experience its timeless elegance and enchanting aroma. With each precious drop, "Iris de Chanel" offers a glimpse into a bygone era of glamour and sophistication, a fleeting moment to cherish and savor for generations to come.

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