Chypre de Chanel c1925

"Chypre de Chanel" stands as a timeless fragrance masterpiece crafted by perfumer Ernest Beaux and introduced by Chanel, the epitome of elegance in the fashion world, in 1925. The term "chypre" denotes a distinct fragrance category characterized by a base featuring oakmoss, labdanum, and bergamot. This genre traces its origins back to the 19th century, rooted in the aromatic traditions of Mediterranean perfumery.

During the early 20th century, chypre fragrances experienced a golden age, captivating the olfactory senses of perfume connoisseurs worldwide. This era witnessed a profusion of interpretations from various esteemed perfume houses, each infusing their creations with unique nuances and additional notes. Among the pioneers was François Coty, whose 1917 release of "Chypre" is often hailed as one of the earliest modern chypre compositions.

The 1920s marked a zenith for chypre fragrances, symbolizing sophistication and refinement. Chanel's rendition of the chypre style quickly garnered acclaim, solidifying its place as a legendary creation in the annals of perfumery. Renowned for its intricate blend of citrus, floral, and woody elements, "Chypre de Chanel" exudes an enduring elegance that transcends time.

The perennial allure of chypre fragrances attests to their profound impact on the world of perfumery, a testament to their lasting legacy and unwavering appeal across generations.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a chypre fragrance for women. Although the precise composition of Chypre de Chanel remains a mystery, I've meticulously reconstructed its olfactory pyramid based on ingredients from other chypre-based formulas of the era. 

• Top notes: saffron, bergamot, neroli, cassie, aldehydes, geranium, hyacinth, orange, petitgrain, limette, galbanum
• Middle notes: lavender, rosemary, galbanum, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, tuberose, orris
• Base notes: castoreum, vanilla, civet, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, ambergris, tonka, labdanum, storax

Here's a speculative breakdown of what Chypre de Chanel could potentially comprise:  Its complex composition unfolds in layers, starting with an invigorating burst of top notes that dance on the senses. Bergamot, neroli, cassie, aldehydes, geranium, hyacinth, orange, petitgrain, and limette intertwine harmoniously, creating a vibrant and uplifting opening.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes reveal themselves, adding depth and sophistication to the olfactory journey. Rosemary, galbanum, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, tuberose, and orris impart a floral richness, infusing the composition with a sense of timeless elegance.

Finally, the base notes anchor the fragrance with their velvety warmth and sensuality. Castoreum, vanilla, civet, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, ambergris, tonka, labdanum, and storax blend seamlessly, creating a luxurious and lasting impression on the skin.

Ernest Beaux's innovative approach to perfumery is evident in his meticulous selection and blending of both natural and synthetic ingredients. By incorporating prized essences such as jasmine absolute and rose absolute, he ensured that "Chypre de Chanel" exuded an unparalleled richness and allure.

In keeping with the practices of his time, Beaux likely employed key aromachemicals to enhance and deepen the fragrance's complexity. Ingredients like vanillin, coumarin, ambreine, hyacinthine, linalool, and safranol would have contributed to the captivating aroma, elevating "Chypre de Chanel" to iconic status in the world of perfumery.

Vanillin, often associated with the aroma of vanilla, exudes a sweet, creamy, and comforting scent reminiscent of baked goods and desserts. Ambreine, on the other hand, mimics the rich, warm, and slightly musky aroma of ambergris, evoking a sense of luxury and sophistication. Hyacinthine carries the delicate floral scent of hyacinth flowers, with hints of sweetness and greenness, adding freshness and vibrancy to fragrances. Coumarin offers a sweet, hay-like aroma with nuances of almond and vanilla, lending a cozy and comforting feel to perfumes. Linalool contributes a fresh, floral, and slightly spicy scent, often found in lavender and citrus fragrances, imparting a calming and uplifting effect. Safranol, derived from saffron, delivers a warm, spicy, and exotic aroma with floral undertones, adding depth and richness to compositions.

When combined, these aromatic compounds create a captivating symphony of scents. The sweet, creamy notes of vanillin intertwine with the warm, musky tones of ambreine, while the delicate floral accents of hyacinthine add a touch of freshness. Coumarin's cozy sweetness harmonizes with the fresh, floral character of linalool, while safranol infuses the blend with its exotic and spicy allure. Together, these ingredients form a complex and multifaceted fragrance profile, balancing sweetness, warmth, freshness, and depth in perfect harmony. The result is a rich and intriguing scent that captivates the senses and leaves a lasting impression.

In crafting a perfume aligned with Chanel's tradition of offering sophisticated and nuanced fragrances, it's essential to balance any sweet elements with bittersweet notes to achieve the desired complexity and elegance. While sweet notes like vanillin and coumarin can add warmth and depth to a fragrance, tempering them with bittersweet ingredients creates a more refined and multifaceted scent profile.

For example, the sweetness of vanillin could be balanced with the bittersweet richness of oakmoss, which adds earthy, mossy, and slightly woody undertones to the composition. Similarly, the cozy sweetness of coumarin could be offset by the bitter freshness of galbanum, a resinous ingredient with green, leafy facets.

Additionally, the warm muskiness of ambreine could be complemented by the bittersweet floral notes of orris, which impart a powdery, slightly earthy aroma to the fragrance. The fresh, floral character of hyacinthine could be balanced with the bitter citrusy notes of bergamot, adding brightness and dimension to the scent.

By carefully selecting and blending bittersweet ingredients alongside sweeter ones, the resulting fragrance maintains Chanel's signature sophistication while offering a captivating olfactory experience that is both balanced and refined.

We Owed It To The Children, 1935:

"This rather discouraged me, but, after wasting a great deal of time and strength, I finally ended by buying a bottle of Chanel "Chypre" for five dollars for which I think they charge fifteen in New York. I shall never inquire."

The excerpt you provided paints a picture of a time when purchasing a bottle of Chanel "Chypre" was both a significant decision and an act of indulgence. The speaker's initial reluctance, perhaps due to the perceived extravagance of the purchase, gives way to a sense of resignation, ultimately leading them to acquire the coveted fragrance. The mention of the price discrepancy between their location and New York adds to the narrative, highlighting the luxury associated with Chanel perfumes and the varying costs depending on location. The phrase "I shall never inquire" suggests a willingness to overlook the expense in favor of possessing the fragrance, underscoring its perceived value and desirability. Overall, the passage offers a glimpse into the allure and allure of Chanel perfumes during that era, as well as the lengths one might go to obtain them.

 Bottles:

American Druggist - Volume 95, 1937:

• "CHANEL - After Bath Powder $6.50 
• Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 3 1/2 oz $6.00, 8 oz $10.00, 15 oz $19.50, 28 oz $37.50. 
• (Cylinder Bottle) Jasmin and Bois des Isles. 3 1/2 oz $5.00, 7 1/2 oz  $10.00.
• Perfumes: Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and Special. 
• Chanel Eau de Cologne perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather. 3 sizes. 
• Talcum Powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather. Generous size, $1.50, Large size, $2.50."

This excerpt from the American Druggist in 1937 provides a detailed glimpse into the range of Chanel fragrances and related products available during that time. Chanel's offerings encompass a variety of scents and formats, catering to different preferences and occasions.

The after-bath powder, priced at $6.50, suggests a luxurious post-bathing ritual enhanced by Chanel's fragrances. The Eau De Toilette comes in cube and cylinder bottles, featuring a selection of scents including Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, Magnolia, Jasmin, and Bois des Isles. The prices vary depending on the size, ranging from $6.00 for 3 1/2 oz to $37.50 for 28 oz, reflecting the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

The range of perfumes offered by Chanel is diverse, featuring Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and a Special blend. Each perfume likely embodies Chanel's signature elegance and sophistication, catering to different tastes and occasions.

Additionally, Chanel extends its fragrance offerings to Eau de Cologne, perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather, available in three sizes. This demonstrates Chanel's versatility in providing fragrances for various purposes and preferences.

Lastly, Chanel offers talcum powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather, further enhancing the sensory experience associated with the brand's iconic scents. The generous and large sizes, priced at $1.50 and $2.50 respectively, make these products accessible to a wide range of consumers, reinforcing Chanel's commitment to luxury and quality. Overall, this comprehensive range of fragrances and related products showcases Chanel's enduring influence and popularity in the world of perfumery during the 1930s.

Photo from Elysium.

To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:

Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The disruption caused by World War II likely had a significant impact on the production and availability of many goods, including fragrances. The scarcity of resources, the prioritization of wartime needs, and the upheaval of supply chains would have all contributed to the discontinuation of certain products, including Chanel's Chypre.

During times of conflict and uncertainty, luxury items like perfumes often take a backseat to more essential goods. The focus shifts towards supporting the war effort, leading to the suspension or cessation of non-essential production activities.

In the case of Chanel's Chypre, its production may have been halted indefinitely due to the challenges posed by World War II. Despite being sold in 1937, the onset of the war and its aftermath could have prevented its continued availability on the market.

As a result, Chanel's Chypre may have become a casualty of circumstance, lost to history as a casualty of the turmoil of wartime production and distribution. Its discontinuation adds to its mystique and allure, making it an even more precious find for those fortunate enough to encounter it.

While Chypre fragrances continue to hold a special place in the world of perfumery, Chanel's Chypre has become a rarity, almost like a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. Despite its iconic status and historical significance, Chanel's Chypre has seemingly faded into obscurity over the years, making it increasingly challenging to find.

For those fortunate enough to stumble upon a bottle of Chanel's Chypre, it becomes more than just a fragrance—it transforms into a cherished relic, an olfactory treasure from a bygone era. Each spritz evokes a sense of nostalgia, transporting the wearer to a time when elegance and sophistication were synonymous with Chanel.

As the years pass, the scarcity of Chanel's Chypre only adds to its allure, elevating it to the status of a coveted collector's item among perfume enthusiasts. To encounter and experience this elusive fragrance is to connect with a piece of perfume history, a reminder of Chanel's enduring legacy and the timeless appeal of Chypre compositions.

So, if you're lucky enough to find a bottle of Chanel's Chypre, cherish it as more than just a scent—treasure it as a rare and precious artifact that captures the essence of a bygone era in perfumery.