Jasmin de Chanel c1933

Jasmin by Chanel: launched in 1933, created by Ernest Beaux.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral fragrance for women. Although the precise composition of Jasmin de Chanel remains a mystery, I've meticulously reconstructed its olfactory pyramid based on ingredients from other jasmine-based formulas of the era. 

• Top notes: cassie, neroli
• Middle notes: jasmine absolute, rose absolute, orange blossom, orris
• Base notes: sandalwood, benzoin, ambergris, ambrette, civet and musk

Here's a speculative breakdown of what Jasmin de Chanel could potentially comprise:  

Ernest Beaux's innovative approach to perfumery is evident in his meticulous selection and blending of both natural and synthetic ingredients. By incorporating prized essences such as jasmine absolute and rose absolute, he ensured that "Jasmin de Chanel" exuded an unparalleled richness and allure.

In keeping with the practices of his time, Beaux likely employed key aromachemicals to enhance and deepen the fragrance's complexity. Ingredients like benzyl acetate, terpineol, and hydroxycitronellal as dominating constituents plus others naturally found in jasmine.

Benzyl acetate, a prominent constituent in jasmine, emits a sweet, floral aroma reminiscent of jasmine flowers themselves, with fruity undertones akin to ripe apricots or peaches. It contributes a fresh, light quality to fragrances, often described as delicate and slightly balsamic. Terpineol, derived from pine oil or other natural sources, offers a multifaceted scent profile, combining floral, citrusy, and piney notes. Its aroma is clean and refreshing, evoking images of a forest after rainfall. 

Meanwhile, hydroxycitronellal presents a rich, floral scent with hints of citrus and green facets. It adds depth and complexity to fragrances, imparting a fresh, slightly powdery quality. Together, these aromachemicals synergize with the natural essences in "Jasmin de Chanel," enhancing the fragrance's allure while enriching its complexity. They create a harmonious blend that captures the essence of jasmine in a modern, sophisticated way, elevating the olfactory experience to new heights.

The captivating scent profile of natural jasmine is a delicate dance of numerous aromatic compounds. Benzyl acetate leads the composition with its sweet, floral notes reminiscent of jasmine blossoms in full bloom, complemented by subtle fruity undertones akin to ripe apricots. Linalol contributes a fresh, citrusy aroma that uplifts the floral bouquet, adding a crisp and invigorating touch. Linalyl acetate lends a soft, powdery sweetness to the fragrance, enhancing its overall elegance and refinement. Indol brings depth and complexity with its rich, heady scent, evoking images of lush gardenias and exotic blooms. Methyl anthranilate infuses a sweet, fruity facet reminiscent of juicy grapes, enhancing the fragrance with its vibrant and succulent aroma. 

Supporting this intricate blend are additional aromatic compounds such as methyl nonylacetaldehyde, phenyl ethyl alcohol, and benzyl alcohol, each contributing their unique nuances to the fragrance, from floral and fruity to sweet and balsamic. Geranyl acetate and phenyl ethyl acetate add further complexity with their floral and fruity notes, while styrolyl alcohol imparts a subtle, woody undertone. Finally, acting as fixatives, octylic acetate, decylic acetate, and farnesol ensure the longevity and stability of the fragrance, allowing it to unfold gradually over time, revealing its full spectrum of olfactory delights.

 Together, these aromatic constituents create a mesmerizing symphony of scent that captures the essence of natural jasmine in all its beauty and complexity.

Bottles:

American Druggist - Volume 95, 1937:

• "CHANEL - After Bath Powder $6.50 
• Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 3 1/2 oz $6.00, 8 oz $10.00, 15 oz $19.50, 28 oz $37.50. 
• (Cylinder Bottle) Jasmin and Bois des Isles. 3 1/2 oz $5.00, 7 1/2 oz  $10.00.
• Perfumes: Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and Special. 
• Chanel Eau de Cologne perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather. 3 sizes. 
• Talcum Powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather. Generous size, $1.50, Large size, $2.50."

This excerpt from the American Druggist in 1937 provides a detailed glimpse into the range of Chanel fragrances and related products available during that time. Chanel's offerings encompass a variety of scents and formats, catering to different preferences and occasions.

The after-bath powder, priced at $6.50, suggests a luxurious post-bathing ritual enhanced by Chanel's fragrances. The Eau De Toilette comes in cube and cylinder bottles, featuring a selection of scents including Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, Magnolia, Jasmin, and Bois des Isles. The prices vary depending on the size, ranging from $6.00 for 3 1/2 oz to $37.50 for 28 oz, reflecting the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

The range of perfumes offered by Chanel is diverse, featuring Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and a Special blend. Each perfume likely embodies Chanel's signature elegance and sophistication, catering to different tastes and occasions.

Additionally, Chanel extends its fragrance offerings to Eau de Cologne, perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather, available in three sizes. This demonstrates Chanel's versatility in providing fragrances for various purposes and preferences.

Lastly, Chanel offers talcum powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather, further enhancing the sensory experience associated with the brand's iconic scents. The generous and large sizes, priced at $1.50 and $2.50 respectively, make these products accessible to a wide range of consumers, reinforcing Chanel's commitment to luxury and quality. Overall, this comprehensive range of fragrances and related products showcases Chanel's enduring influence and popularity in the world of perfumery during the 1930s.

To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:

Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

World War II disrupted the production and availability of goods, including fragrances like Chanel's Jasmin. Despite its reintroduction after the war and availability until 1960, Chanel's Jasmin, introduced in 1933, was eventually discontinued. It remains a rare and sought-after fragrance, representing a piece of perfume history lost to wartime challenges. Finding a bottle has become increasingly difficult, turning it into a cherished relic for perfume enthusiasts and a testament to Chanel's enduring legacy. If you come across one, consider it more than just a scent—it's a precious artifact from a bygone era in perfumery.