Bois des Iles c1926

Bois des Iles: launched in 1926, in US in 1929. Created by Ernest Beaux,who was assisted by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine.

Original Vintage Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral woody fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic top, followed by a precious floral heart, resting on a sensual woody base. Vanilla, exotic woods - aloes, macassar, vetiver, amaranth, cedar, sandalwood, okoume, sycamore - tobacco flower and resins: styrax, tolu and balsam of Peru. It is reported that the fragrance contained 50% of sandalwood oil. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, petitgrain, amaranth 
• Mid notes: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, orris, almond, lilac, cassis, lily of the valley
• Base notes: macassar wood, aloewood, okoume wood, cedar, ambergris, sycamore,  tobacco blossom, styrax, Peru balsam, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, opoponax, tolu balsam, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, resins

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Bois des Iles by Chanel: Warm. Dominant note: exotic wood, vanilla. For the lover.. 'the thirty-year-old woman'.. who can be from twenty-five to forty-five. Phèdre or Anna Karenina."

Combat, 1953:

"Vanilla, exotic woods - aloe, macassar, vetiver, amaranth, cedar, sandalwood, okoumé, sycamore - tobacco flower and resins: styrax, tolu and Peru balsam. Invitation to travel. A change of scenery from distant quays set on fire by the exhilarating smell taken from the violent jungles, and mixed with the scent of kelp and iodine from the sea air. And also the smell of cruise ship cabins, cigarettes and gin. And that of warm encounters. A perfume for those rejected from adventure."

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Bois des Iles by Chanel: Some beautiful emigrant, who frequents the casinos of Europe, has brought back from afar, in the iodine-laden wind of the ocean liners, this scent delighted with the ardor of the jungles. The flower of tobacco, vanilla, styrax and balsam of Peru meet unique notes of sandalwood, sycamore and amaranth. These resinous substances heat up like a stranger, in exchange for the freshness of the alcohol on the skin. how much her perfume matches the blond tobacco she smokes in the warm night."

Bottles:

Starting in 1929 Bois des Iles Extrait (parfum) was housed in a mahogany wood presentation box. This presentation was still being used in 1936 as evidenced from newspaper ads.

American Druggist - Volume 95, 1937:

• "CHANEL - After Bath Powder $6.50 
• Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 3 1/2 oz $6.00, 8 oz $10.00, 15 oz $19.50, 28 oz $37.50. 
• (Cylinder Bottle) Jasmin and Bois des Isles. 3 1/2 oz $5.00, 7 1/2 oz  $10.00.
• Perfumes: Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and Special. 
• Chanel Eau de Cologne perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather. 3 sizes. 
• Talcum Powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather. Generous size, $1.50, Large size, $2.50."

To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:

Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Still being sold in 1971. Discontinued for years, then reformulated by Jacques Polge and relaunched in 1989.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, petitgrain, neroli, peach
• Mid notes: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, orris, almond, lilac, cassis
• Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, opoponax, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin

In 1993, Chanel relaunched a trio of discontinued perfumes: Bois des Îles, Cuir de Russie, and Gardénia, see the advertisement below.

Reformulated by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake in 2007.

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