Bois des Iles: launched in 1926, in US in 1929. Created by Ernest Beaux,who was assisted by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. Ernest Beaux created several iconic perfumes for Chanel, particularly during the early years of the House of Chanel.
Weriguine was a Russian perfumer who worked closely with Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer responsible for creating many iconic fragrances, including Chanel No. 5. Weriguine's contributions likely involved assisting with formulation, ingredient selection, and other aspects of the perfume creation process. He played a significant role in the development of Bois des Iles alongside Ernest Beaux.
Original Vintage Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral woody fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic top, followed by a precious floral heart, resting on a sensual woody base. It is reported that the fragrance contained 50% of sandalwood oil.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, petitgrain, amaranth
- Mid notes: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, orris, almond, lilac, cassis, lily of the valley
- Base notes: macassar wood, aloewood, okoume wood, cedar, ambergris, sycamore, tobacco blossom, styrax, Peru balsam, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, opoponax, tolu balsam, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, resins
Scent Profile:
Imagine stepping into a sun-drenched forest grove, where the air is heavy with the intoxicating aroma of sandalwood. Bois des Iles, a legendary fragrance, is said to contain a staggering 50% of this precious oil, enveloping you in its warm and creamy embrace from the very first spritz.
As the fragrance unfolds on your skin, a bouquet of precious florals blooms at its heart. Absolutes of jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang intertwine in a delicate dance, their sweet and intoxicating aromas enveloping you like a soft embrace. Orris lends a powdery elegance, while hints of almond and lilac add a touch of whimsy and intrigue. Lily of the valley adds a dewy freshness, reminiscent of a spring morning in full bloom.
As you inhale, the scent unfolds like a love letter to the precious sandalwood tree of Mysore, India. Its woody richness is immediately apparent, mingling with the subtle sweetness of vanilla and the smoky allure of tobacco flower. Each note is carefully woven together, creating a symphony of scent that is both sensual and comforting.
Exotic woods, including macassar, aloes, and okoume, create a sensual and mysterious aura, evoking distant lands and untold adventures. Cedar and costly ambergris lend a warm and enveloping richness, while tobacco blossom adds a hint of smoky allure. Resins like styrax, tolu, and balsam of Peru infuse the scent with a sweet and resinous depth. Vetiver adds a smoky, earthy facet.
But it is the sandalwood that steals the show, its creamy warmth wrapping around you like a soft blanket. You can almost feel the smooth texture of the wood beneath your fingertips, as if you were standing amidst the towering sandalwood trees themselves. As you breathe in the scent, you can almost feel the soft caress of vanilla and tonka bean, wrapping you in a cocoon of warmth and comfort. Musk adds a subtle sensuality, lingering on your skin like a whispered promise.
Bois des Iles is more than just a fragrance; it is a journey to a distant land, where the air is heavy with the scent of spices and exotic woods. With its generous dose of sandalwood, it is a tribute to the beauty and allure of this timeless ingredient, capturing its essence in every drop.
Intriguing and alluring, this fragrance is a symphony of scents that lingers long after you've walked away, leaving an indelible impression on those lucky enough to catch its elusive trail.
"Bois des Iles by Chanel: Warm. Dominant note: exotic wood, vanilla. For the lover.. 'the thirty-year-old woman'.. who can be from twenty-five to forty-five. Phèdre or Anna Karenina."
Combat, 1953:
"Vanilla, exotic woods - aloe, macassar, vetiver, amaranth, cedar, sandalwood, okoumé, sycamore - tobacco flower and resins: styrax, tolu and Peru balsam. Invitation to travel. A change of scenery from distant quays set on fire by the exhilarating smell taken from the violent jungles, and mixed with the scent of kelp and iodine from the sea air. And also the smell of cruise ship cabins, cigarettes and gin. And that of warm encounters. A perfume for those rejected from adventure."
Combat, 1954:
"Eau Bois des Iles by Chanel: Some beautiful emigrant, who frequents the casinos of Europe, has brought back from afar, in the iodine-laden wind of the ocean liners, this scent delighted with the ardor of the jungles. The flower of tobacco, vanilla, styrax and balsam of Peru meet unique notes of sandalwood, sycamore and amaranth. These resinous substances heat up like a stranger, in exchange for the freshness of the alcohol on the skin. how much her perfume matches the blond tobacco she smokes in the warm night."
Bois des Iles by Chanel, as described in Marie-Claire 1937, exudes warmth with its dominant notes of exotic wood and vanilla. Designed for the sophisticated woman, aged twenty-five to forty-five, it evokes the timeless allure of characters like Phèdre or Anna Karenina. Combat, 1953, portrays it as an invitation to travel, blending vanilla, exotic woods, tobacco flower, and resins to evoke distant shores and adventurous encounters, catering to those drawn to the excitement of new experiences. In Combat, 1954, Eau Bois des Iles by Chanel is likened to a scent carried by ocean winds from distant jungles. It combines notes of tobacco flower, vanilla, and resins with unique woods like sandalwood and sycamore. This fragrance embodies the allure of exoticism and adventure, perfect for those seeking the thrill of the unknown and the warmth of shared moments, akin to the aroma of blond tobacco lingering in the night air.
Bottles:
American Druggist - Volume 95, 1937:
- "CHANEL - After Bath Powder $6.50
- Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 3 1/2 oz $6.00, 8 oz $10.00, 15 oz $19.50, 28 oz $37.50.
- (Cylinder Bottle) Jasmin and Bois des Isles. 3 1/2 oz $5.00, 7 1/2 oz $10.00.
- Perfumes: Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and Special.
- Chanel Eau de Cologne perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather. 3 sizes.
- Talcum Powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather. Generous size, $1.50, Large size, $2.50."
This excerpt from the American Druggist in 1937 provides a detailed glimpse into the range of Chanel fragrances and related products available during that time. Chanel's offerings encompass a variety of scents and formats, catering to different preferences and occasions.
The after-bath powder, priced at $6.50, suggests a luxurious post-bathing ritual enhanced by Chanel's fragrances. The Eau De Toilette comes in cube and cylinder bottles, featuring a selection of scents including Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, Magnolia, Jasmin, and Bois des Isles. The prices vary depending on the size, ranging from $6.00 for 3 1/2 oz to $37.50 for 28 oz, reflecting the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
The range of perfumes offered by Chanel is diverse, featuring Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and a Special blend. Each perfume likely embodies Chanel's signature elegance and sophistication, catering to different tastes and occasions.
Additionally, Chanel extends its fragrance offerings to Eau de Cologne, perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather, available in three sizes. This demonstrates Chanel's versatility in providing fragrances for various purposes and preferences.
Lastly, Chanel offers talcum powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather, further enhancing the sensory experience associated with the brand's iconic scents. The generous and large sizes, priced at $1.50 and $2.50 respectively, make these products accessible to a wide range of consumers, reinforcing Chanel's commitment to luxury and quality. Overall, this comprehensive range of fragrances and related products showcases Chanel's enduring influence and popularity in the world of perfumery during the 1930s.
To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:
Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The original formula for Bois des Iles was still being sold in 1971. Discontinued for years, then reformulated by Jacques Polge and relaunched in 1989.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, petitgrain, neroli, peach
- Mid notes: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, orris, almond, lilac, cassis
- Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, opoponax, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin
The original formula for Bois des Iles remained in circulation as late as 1971 before being discontinued. After years of absence, it was reimagined and revitalized by perfumer Jacques Polge, who reformulated the scent, ushering in its relaunch in 1989. This new rendition retained the essence of the original while infusing it with a contemporary twist.
At its heart, Bois des Iles is a symphony of notes that dance harmoniously on the skin. The top notes sparkle with the freshness of aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, petitgrain, neroli, and the juicy sweetness of peach. As the fragrance evolves, a floral bouquet of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, orris, almond, lilac, and cassis blooms, enveloping the wearer in a delicate and intoxicating embrace. Anchoring the composition are the warm and grounding base notes of vetiver, sandalwood, opoponax, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, and benzoin, adding depth and sensuality to the scent.
With its timeless appeal and enduring charm, Bois des Iles continues to captivate fragrance enthusiasts, its rich history and exquisite formulation ensuring its place as a beloved classic in the world of perfumery.
In 1993, Chanel unveiled a triumphant revival of three cherished fragrances from its storied past: Bois des Îles, Cuir de Russie, and Gardénia. This relaunch marked a nostalgic return to elegance and sophistication, as captured in the advertisement below.
Bois des Iles underwent a significant transformation in 2007, thanks to the collaborative efforts of perfumers Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake. This reformulation marked a new chapter in the fragrance's illustrious history, merging the expertise and artistic vision of two master perfumers to elevate its timeless charm and ensure its relevance in the contemporary landscape.
The impetus behind the 2007 reformulation was primarily regulatory restrictions imposed on certain fragrance ingredients. Chanel responded to these constraints by revisiting the formulation while meticulously safeguarding the essence and integrity of the original scent. This meticulous process allowed Chanel to align Bois des Iles with evolving industry standards without compromising its quality or olfactory allure.
Through the combined talents of Polge and Sheldrake, Bois des Iles emerged revitalized, embodying the spirit of innovation while retaining the classic elegance that has made it an enduring icon in the world of perfumery. This reformulation exemplifies Chanel's unwavering commitment to excellence and its dedication to preserving the legacy of its most beloved fragrances.
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