Gardenia de Chanel c1925

Gardenia: Gardenia is gorgeous floral bouquet and an admirable example of talent of the great perfume creator Ernest Beaux. Beaux created this exquisite perfume in 1925. Gardenia was available as parfum extrait, eau de Gardenia (eau de toilette) and eau de cologne. Chanel released face powder scented with the Gardenia essence around 1930.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as fresh floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: honeysuckle, lilac, orange blossom, green notes
• Middle notes: gardenia, tuberose, jasmine, fruity notes
• Base notes: coconut, vanilla, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli

Pittsburgh Press, 1925:

" A New Perfume from Chanel: In Gardenia, the latest creation from this house, Chanel has imprisoned the romantic sweetness of the natural blossom. In dainty containers suitable for the boudoir. Perfume $11.50, $15.00 and $26.00. Toilet Water $9.00." 

Combat, 1955:

"Honeysuckle, freshened by the green smell of lilac, the fine aroma of honeysuckle, which points its ivory teeth in the forests, is similar to the scent of Chinese gardenia. We find the dominant in extracts that are suitable for the summer, such as Chanel's Gardenia and Lancome's Bocages.."

Bottles:

Chanel imprisoned the Gardenia fragrance in her signature Chanel flacon. To open the classic Chanel crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Chanel in 1963:

Remove cord and paper; with index finger as cushion, tap underneath sides of stopper lightly with glass object (glass on glass being the scientific method) while turning the bottle steadily between fingers, so that the stopper will be loosened evenly.

American Druggist - Volume 95, 1937:

• "CHANEL - After Bath Powder $6.50 
• Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia. 3 1/2 oz $6.00, 8 oz $10.00, 15 oz $19.50, 28 oz $37.50. 
• (Cylinder Bottle) Jasmin and Bois des Isles. 3 1/2 oz $5.00, 7 1/2 oz  $10.00.
• Perfumes: Gardenia, Jasmin, Cuir de Russie, Ambre, Chypre, Iris, Rose, Magnolia, and Special. 
• Chanel Eau de Cologne perfumed with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, No. 22, or Russia Leather. 3 sizes. 
• Talcum Powder scented with Chanel No. 5, Gardenia, or Russia Leather. Generous size, $1.50, Large size, $2.50."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Gardenia seems to have been discontinued around 1966 or so.

Gardenia was relaunched in the 1980's together with other exclusive perfumes -Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie. The reconstructed version is very similar to the original (vintage). At the time of Ernest Beaux synthetic materials technology was still undeveloped, and due to synthetic notes the new version of Gardenia is more modern and not at all that heavy and strong as expected from white flowers. The elegance of Gardenia is timeless. Natural fragrance of gardenia can not be distillated, and in this composition it is substituted by fragrances of orange blossom, and jasmine, succored by sweet tuberose note. In the base of the composition, beside musk, there are woody notes of patchouli, vetiver, vanilla and sandalwood.

The 1980s version of Gardenia was available as parfum extrait, eau de parfum and eau de toilette.

Reformulated in 2007 by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake.

• Top notes: jasmine, gardenia, orange blossom, tuberose
• Middle notes: clove, sage, pimiento. 
• Base notes: musk, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver