Ivoire de Chanel c1932

Ivoire de Chanel perfume was launched in 1932, during the height of the Great Depression.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a strong, sharp aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Italian bergamot, neroli
• Middle notes: Comoros ylang ylang, French carnation, Grasse jasmine absolute, lilac, Grasse rose absolute, Parma violet, Florentine orris
• Base notes: incense, resin, Java vetiver, Tyrolean oakmoss, iralia, Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, opoponax, Venezuelan tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, ambergris, Tonkin musk

Ivoire de Chanel is a masterpiece of perfumery classified as a strong, sharp aldehydic floral fragrance. Its composition is anchored by Iralia®, a pre-fabricated base of methyl ionones crafted by Firmenich, which imparts a rich woody and flowery violet-orris note.

Upon the first spritz, the top notes greet you with the crispness of aldehydes, the zesty freshness of Italian bergamot, and the delicate sweetness of neroli. As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a luxurious bouquet: the exotic allure of Comoros ylang ylang, the spicy warmth of French carnation, the intoxicating richness of Grasse jasmine absolute, the soft floral whisper of lilac, the classic elegance of Grasse rose absolute, the powdery sweetness of Parma violet, and the earthy sophistication of Florentine orris.

Finally, the base notes provide a lasting, complex foundation. The smoky depth of incense and resin, the grassy earthiness of Java vetiver, the mossy undertones of Tyrolean oakmoss, and the unique woody-floral essence of Iralia® blend seamlessly. Complemented by the creamy smoothness of Mysore sandalwood, the robust warmth of Atlas cedar, the sweet balsamic scent of opoponax, the comforting richness of Venezuelan tonka bean, the creamy sweetness of Madagascar vanilla, the marine nuance of ambergris, and the animalistic sensuality of Tonkin musk, this fragrance leaves a captivating and unforgettable impression.

The New Yorker, 1932:

"Chanel: Ivoire, the new one, is too sharp for us."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry - Volume 32 - Page 148, 1933:

"A new size powder box, somewhat smaller, has been developed by Chanel, Inc. for its complete line of powders, including the new Ivoire de Chanel odor, No. 5 and Gardenia. A square cut-out in the outer carton fitting over the square cellophane window in the bottom of the white powder box with its black decoration permits of the view of the powder inside without removing the box from the carton."

People on Parade, 1934:

"A faint breath of Chanel's Ivoire became discernible above the pervading odor of juniper, dances at the Ritz less resembled Sunday at the beer gardens, and Mr. Zerbe, camera in hand, floated wistfully into the ken of civilized society."

Vida Mexicana, 1936:

"The very best and most delicate of all French perfumes by the famous Parisian fashion dictator, Madame Chanel...No. 5, No. 22 -GARDENIA- JASMIN- 1940- GLAMOUR- IVOIRE- BOIS DES ILES and the newest RUSSIAN LEATHER."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown, still being sold in 1960. Fragrances can be discontinued for various reasons, including:

• Changing Trends: Consumer preferences and fashion trends evolve, leading to decreased demand for certain scents.

• Ingredient Availability: Difficulty in sourcing key ingredients, either due to environmental issues, regulation changes, or cost.

• Brand Strategy: Companies may streamline their product lines to focus on more popular or profitable fragrances.

• Formulation Changes: Changes in regulations might require reformulation, which some brands choose not to pursue.

• Market Performance: Poor sales performance or competition from other fragrances can lead to discontinuation.

Despite its discontinuation, the fragrance might have remained in circulation due to existing stock, collector interest, or continued sales in specific markets or stores until 1960.

Ivoire de Chanel remains as elusive as many of her other early perfumes. Today, it is a rare gem, predominantly found in online auctions or among dedicated collectors. Should you come across a bottle, treasure it as a precious find.